When scarce American travelers set foot on the streets of Iran, they quickly gather a crowd that is pleasantly surprised to find Americans in their country and eager to try their English, even if only "hello," "very welcome'" and "goodbye." Eleven days in the Islamic Republic of Iran bring one face-to-face with friendly people, historical sights, impressive craftsmanship and more pictures of the ayatollahs Khomenei and Khamenei than a Hollywood opening night.

For the record, the U.S. and Iran have been at odds since the 1979 revolution overthrew the U.S.-friendly shah, overran the American Embassy and taunted President Carter by holding Americans hostage. After years of rule by staunch Islamic fundamentalist, two years ago Iranians elected moderate President Khatami....

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